Georgian Jewellery
Lucy Marles (Jewellery Valuer) writes about what to look out for when buying Georgian
jewellery at auction and introduces some of the different metal works employed by
Georgian jewellers.
A Georgian ring.
Georgian jewellery is beautifully distinctive and particularly sought after at auction
today. The Georgian era is a period in British history from 1714 to 1830-37 and
named after the Hanoverian Kings George I, II, III and IV. The definition of the
Georgian era is often extended to include the short reign of William IV (1830-37).
If you are looking to purchase authentic Georgian jewellery at auction, the following
will help to confirm what to look out for.
Assaying was enforced during the 1900s, therefore authentic Georgian jewellery
will not display any assay marks. Maker's marks are also absent from Georgian period
jewellery. Jewellers within this period handcrafted all their jewellery and common
metal works included 'repousse' and 'cannetille'.
Repousse involved hammering metal into intricate designs. Cannetille is a technique
used mostly in the early 19th century and resembled embroidery-inspired filigree,
which gave a delicate and detailed look.
Georgian jewellery mounted with gemstones, such as rings, often displayed closed
back settings, which included coloured, foil backings from underneath the stone
to
enhance their colour and scintillation. Gemstone cutting styles that should also
be noted are rose-cut (domed faceted top), cabochon-cut (rounded top and flat bottom)
and briolette-cut (faceted teardrop shape).
Memorial or 'hair' jewellery was created in the Georgian period to commemorate departed
loved ones and became very popular during the Georgian period. Ribbons and/or bows
would also be included.
Riviere necklaces were beautiful and fashionable creations composed of individually-set
gemstones (usually graduated) and most often within a 'cut-down-collet' setting.
These statement pieces remain popular today.
A fun and quirky creation within the Georgian period included 'En Tremblant' settings.
These designs attached jewellery parts to a trembler to create movement and
were often found on brooches.
Parure jewellery was very 'en vogue' in the Georgian period. Suites of matching
jewellery included convertible pieces. Brooches could be converted to pendants for
example, necklaces could separate into bracelets. Many parure jewellery suites were
unfortunately separated over the years. An intact suite is rare.
- Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood
- Jewellery
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About the Author
 | Lucy Marles Jewellery and WatchesLucy Marles is the jewellery specialist at Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood. Lucy
began working for Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood in 2011 on a part-time basis whilst
learning about jewellery and the jewellery industry alongside her father Jethro
Marles.
Lucy now works full time as a jewellery specialist and oversees the day-to-day
running of the jewellery department. Prior to working with Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood,
Lucy Marles completed a secretarial diploma at her local college. From 2007, Lucy
worked for many years within the beauty industry, which led her to run her own part-time
business.
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Georgian Jewellery was written on Friday, 13th December 2019.