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Georg Jensen Jewellery

Lucy Marles (of the Jewellery Department) looks at the work of the Danish jewellers Georg Jensen who are renowned for their fine quality and Art Nouveau jewellery.

A Georg Jensen oval pendant/brooch depicting a winged deer amongst foliage, the reverse with pre-1930s maker's marked 'GI'.

A Georg Jensen oval pendant/brooch depicting a winged deer amongst foliage, the reverse with pre-1930s maker's marked 'GI'.

Georg Jensen is known today for fine quality and distinctive, Art Nouveau jewellery to include brooches, rings, bangles, earrings and cuff-links. Founded in Copenhagen, Denmark and from 1904, Georg Jensen Jewellery pieces have been signed in a number of different ways and although he died in 1935, Georg Jensen's namesake company continues to produce pieces bearing his signature today.

If you are looking to buy Georg Jensen jewellery at auction, it is essential the following marks/stamps are present to give an indication of authenticity and age. The alignment and placement of these markings can vary.

Jensen Maker's Mark. From 1904 until present, approximately ten different Jensen maker's marks have been used. The current maker's mark uses 'GEORG' above 'JENSEN' within an oval dotted surround, not to be confused with some of Jensen's earlier maker's marks that resemble a very similar appearance. Other Jensen maker's marks include 'GI' or 'GJ'.

Georg Jensen maker's marks used from 1904 until present.

Georg Jensen maker's marks used from 1904 until present.

Grade Stamp '826S' was used on earlier pieces and indicates  slightly lower grade of silver, used until around 1915 and followed by silver grade stamp '830S' until around 1927 when Jensen introduced '925S' for sterling silver. Quite often Jensen jewellery is also stamped 'sterling'.

Designer Marks Designers for Georg Jensen used their own marks. For example, designer Vivianna Torun Bulow-Hube (often known as 'Torun') – began working with Jensen from 1967 and would stamp her designs 'TORUN'. Other designers for Georg Jensen include Bent Gabrielsen and Henning Koppel. Designer marks are found alongside the Jensen Maker's Mark.

Design Number For example. '208' or '142A'.

A Georg Jensen abstract brooch, circa 1965 displaying London import marks (View 1). A Georg Jensen abstract brooch, circa 1965 displaying London import marks (View 2).

A Georg Jensen abstract brooch, circa 1965 displaying London import marks.

A Georg Jensen cuff-link of tubular design, displaying design number 64.

A Georg Jensen cuff-link of tubular design, displaying design number 64.

Duty and Import Stamps Often other marks such as duty and import stamps sometimes appear alongside the maker's marks.

Jensen's earlier work is particularly collectable today and regularly found at auction. You can often find Georg Jensen jewellery items in our Quarterly Fine Art Auctions and our 20th Century and Contemporary Auctions.

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About the Author

Lucy MarlesLucy Marles
Jewellery and Watches

Lucy Marles is the jewellery specialist at Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood.

Lucy began working for Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood in 2011 on a part-time basis. Lucy now works full time as a jewellery specialist and oversees the day-to-day running of the jewellery department.

Prior to working with Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood, Lucy Marles completed a secretarial diploma at her local college. From 2007, Lucy worked for many years within the beauty industry, which led her to run her own part-time business.

Georg Jensen Jewellery was written on Friday, 20th September 2019.